natasa Bananaway — Mobe the puppy was not much help while I was taking apart my board but was very convenient for cuddling when I had to abandon my trip because of an awkward landing on the water.

I first travelled to Sri Lanka in October 2011 and returned to this precious gem of an island two times since. Unfortunately, one week into my first trip, I had to cancel my three-month plan to travel around Asia because of a broken leg. But I didn’t let that stop me from returning: when Sri Lanka gets under your skin it’s almost impossible to resist its pull.

1. GRINS FROM EAR TO EAR

train ride sri lanka @NatasaSilec — Sharing is caring: nibbling on pineapple chunks and shrimps was a source of much happiness during a train ride

Sri Lanka’s biggest treasure is its people who are always keen to help, usually while flashing big bright smiles at you. Sometimes they’re even too keen – they can quickly send you in the wrong direction because they don’t like to seem ignorant. But persistence usually pays off and after considerable amount of waving my hands, pointing at my surfboard bag and imitating encouraging if a bit confused smiles, I finally ended up on the right train. I was squeezed into a corner sardine-like but a feast of pineapple chunks and shrimps shared with my travelling companions made up for any discomfort.

These moments – conversations with B&B owners, fishermen, kids and shop keepers – get always firmly etched in my memory. For days after leaving Sri Lanka, I usually respond to questions with a gentle wobble of my head and non-commital grin, which in Srilankan might mean Yes, No or Maybe. I find it rather convenient.

When me and my Bananaway team go to Srilanka in February I’ll be better prepared – I found a very informative video about the subtle meanings of headshake:

2. WAVES

natasa silec sri lanka — One coconut a day keeps all troubles away 🙂

In March 2013, I arrived to Midigama village in the South just in time for the tail end of the surf season. The surf already started to ease off a bit but the waves were perfect for plucking up the courage and trying to learn to catch some waves again. Is there anything better than plunging into warmer-than-air water at the break of dawn? And then return to Plantation Surf Inn where my brother Chathu waited for me with a mango smoothie and banana pancake, doing the head wobble and beaming at me (see point 1)?

3. FOOD

srilankan food — Are you saying your stove ain’t big enough? It’s right here where Chathu’s mum prepared delicious meals for more than 20 people!

Morning surf sessions were followed by lazing about in the tropical garden and waiting for lunch that consisted of a fantastic selection of curries. Chathu’s mum must have poured all her love in these colourful dishes because they were so incredibly tasty! Srilanka is truly a heaven on Earth for all lovers of mangoes, pineapples, papayas, coconuts, rice and curry, lentil dahl, sweet milk banana pancakes, fish, shrimps and more. Locals tone down the spiciness for Westerners’ taste buds but if you like your food hot, go ahead and try the local variety.

And below is a video that shows how to prepare your rotti with a smile:

Midigama_Anushka — Releasing the baby turtles back into the ocean.

Evening was the time to jump into the water again, sometimes release baby turtles back into the ocean and chat with other travellers that got stuck in the South coast of Sri Lanka.

4. ELES!

There is something incredibly gentle and wise about these majestic creatures and they are best seen in the wild. I visited the Udawalave Natural Reserve where whole packs unperturbedly roamed among the bushes, pooed or munched the grass.

5. SUBLIME KITE SPOT

In September, I travelled to the Kalpitiya peninsula in the NW of the island. It has its own microclimate with very little rain and a lot – and I mean a lot – of wind. During summer, there is a constant breeze of 20 to 30 knots of wind and 15 to 25 knots during the winter. The slightly smaller Kappaladdi lagoon is perfect for freestyle while the big Kalpitya lagoon is ideal for learning and a starting point for a downwind trip to a sand strip where off-shore winds create sublime flat water conditions (check out what Craig Cunningham had to say about this spot!). This is still one of my favourite kite spots.

6. CULTURE

tuktuk sri lanka @NatasaSilec — Next time I’ll get my own pink tuktuk and drive it like a local: I’ll honk my horn madly at any soul that will dare to cross my path.

While travelling around the island you can get the sense of the prevailing religion in individual villages, let it be Buddhism, Hinduism, Christianity or Islam, while a conversation about cricket is an excellent icebreaker. Even only mentioning the name Ponting was usually enough to create the impression of a real connoisseur and an approving wobble of the head followed.

I was really honoured when Chathu invited me to attend a celebration during full moon. The Sinhalese who practice Buddhism call it the Poya day, which is also a national holiday during which the sale of meat and alcohol is forbidden. So, when the fat moon rose over the palm trees, we went to a temple, circled it a few times in silence and pondered over our secret desires. Then, we lit the candles and incense and returned home. And yes, quite a few of my wishes came true 🙂

I usually got stuck at the beach but Sri Lanka has so much more to offer: festivals, tea plantations, ancient cities, temples, spices, pristine beaches and lush jungle. A can hardly wait to go back in February and explore another of its many precious secrets. Just a little more to go…

Would you like to come along? Check out our offer, I’m sure there’s something in there for you!

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